Sydney
Monday 1st October
Flew to Sydney, both the Virgin Blue internal flights we have been on, have been excellent. Got to YHA Central at 3pm and went for a walk down to Darling harbour then in opposite direction looking for a supermarket, which we finally found on Broadway. Walked miles as usual! The hostel is good, basic but clean. It is right in the middle of Chinatown. Weather here beautifully warm at 26 degrees, with 32 forecast for Wednesday. Have no real plans for each day except doing Maritime museum and perhaps the Bridge climb if it isn’t booked up, we are right in the middle of their Spring break school holidays!
Tues 2nd
Booked bridge climb for Friday, £72 each. Walked to Circular Quay and did the obligatory photos with the opera house and the harbour bridge in the background. Walked through Botanic Gardens to Mrs McQuarie’s Chair, a lookout point out over the harbour. Did the Police and Justice Museum again for Dave’s benefit, I didn’t mind as I enjoyed it last time. It was built in 1856 and functioned as a Police station and Courts until the 1980’s. The Courts dealt with cases relating to the harbour such as smuggling, illegal immigrants and theft, as well as public order offences of drunkenness and vagrancy. It was one of the busiest courts in New South Wales at the end of the 19th century, handling up to 120 cases a day. The dock in the court is an enclosed cage which held up to 15 prisoners at a time. The dock comes from the Flemish word ‘docke’ which means birdcage. We then walked back, have probably done about 7 miles today.
Wed 3rd
We spent the whole day at the Maritime museum in Darling Harbour. A tiring day, as temps in the 30’s. Started with the destroyer “HMAS Vampire” which was decommissioned from active service in 1986. It is 118m long and has 3 gun turrets which have a range of 19km, and until 1970, 5 torpedoes. It had a crew of 300 men and 20 officers. Its top speed is 30 knots. I enjoyed this, it was similar to HMS Belfast. Next was “HMAS Onslow”, a submarine in service until 1999. This was incredibly poky, and required lots of climbing through hatches and up narrow ladders and corridors. Dave managed to knee me in the side of my head very hard, following me too close down a staircase. We both thought there would be a height restriction for personnel, but the last captain was 6ft 4”. Poor bloke, as the bunks are only 6ft long. Most submarines do ‘hot bunking’, where 3 crew share the same bed space in 8 hour shifts, unusually this sub had bunks for all of its 68 crew. I find subs interesting, but I don’t enjoy them, they are so enclosed. I can’t imagine how terrible it was to be under the sea for 6 weeks at a time. Needless to say Dave loved it!! Asking as many questions as possible to maximise our stay inside!!
As James Cook’s “Endeavour” was away sailing we did a restored 19th century 3-masted, 167ft (51m)barque called “James Craig”. This vessel was a bulk cargo carrier and still sails regularly, though now with a crew of 48, unlike in the 19th century when the crew was only 17!
After spending 5 hours outside on the ships we went inside to do the museum but were quite shattered by this stage and didn’t really do it justice.
Thurs 4th
Another jam packed day. Walked down to Darling Harbour and did the Wildlife World. This was brilliant. It is a showcase of Australia’s flora and fauna and is split up into 9 habitats over a km of walkways. There were butterflies, spiders and other critters, snakes and reptiles, nocturnal animals, wallabies, koalas, birds, a wombat and a rain forest. The information available on each animal was fascinating. Despite the appearance of giant insects in horror movies, the reason why insects don’t grow larger than a human fist is down to physics. When an insect doubles its length, its weight increases 8 times, whilst its strength only increases by a factor of 4. This becomes a problem for any animal carrying around a heavy external skeleton (exoskeleton). By the time an ant got to human size its lack of muscle power would make even small movements impossible and the exoskeleton would crush under its own weight. Also insects don’t have lungs or an efficient circulatory system to take oxygen to their tissues, instead air passes through holes in the sides of their body and passes down tubes to the deep tissues. As an insect increases in size, its volume increases faster than its surface area making it more difficult to get air into the tissues. A giant insect would therefore suffocate even out in the open.
They had several red backs and funnel web spiders in burrows. The snake exhibit was great, consisting of several pythons and other venomous snakes of Australia. In the world listing of the most venomous snakes Oz has the most of any country in the top 30. Ranked at number 1 is the Inland Taipan, No.2 the Brown Snake (same one we saw at Gina’s), and No.3 the Coastal Taipan, the Tiger snake at No.6 and The Death Adder at No.18. We saw all of these today.
The whole place was laid out beautifully and I would recommend it as a must for anyone visiting Sydney who likes animals, way better than the zoo.
Next it was off to Hyde Park Barracks, and the most boring museum I’ve ever been in. I thought it would be full of artefacts from its past as a prison for convicts, and later for female immigrants, but instead it was mainly about the convict ships of the 18th century. The focus seemed to be on archaeology and what they had found excavating the site, not really our focus of interest. The only bit I liked was the top floor which was laid out with hundreds of replica convict hammocks. It would have been better if there was more along this theme.
Quick stop at the Hard Rock Café to get Dad a pin badge with Sydney on it, very out of the way in Wooloomooloo, where I stayed, when I came here before.
Walked back via the Anzac memorial which also had a superb museum underneath it.
Fri 5th
The only thing planned for today was the bridge climb. We caught the bus to Circular Quay and then walked to the Rocks and the base of the bridge. The bridge commenced in 1924 and completed in 1932 taking 7 years and 356 days. It is the largest single-span, steel arch bridge in the world. It is an incredible feat particularly considering the rudimentary safety equipment they had in the 1930’s. Surprisingly only 2 men fell to their deaths during the construction. The top of the bridge is 134 m above Sydney harbour. In 1998 they opened the bridge to climbers and over 2 million have completed the climb of 1439 steps. The first hour was taken up with preparation and training. They breath test you for alcohol and put you through a metal detector. No watches, cameras, or bags are allowed, they give you a jumpsuit to wear and anything else is tied to you, such as sunglasses, radio to hear instructor, hats and jackets. There is a ball and chain ratchet device on the belt harness (the same as crew use on boats to stop them getting washed overboard), which is attached to a steel line at all times. The actual climb took 2 hours though a lot of that time was spent looking at the view and allowing slower members of the group to catch up. The first part involved climbing through girders at the base and walking on narrow platforms to get to the start of the arch. At all times you could see the ground and harbour 60m below through the wire mesh of the walkways and I found this the worst bit. There were then 4 ladders of approx 30 steps each then you were at the base of the arch. The actual arch was great, wide, SOLID, steps that just led you gradually to the top, where the views were amazing. It was a fabulous day, light winds and 20 degrees. We had a good instructor who was encouraging, professional and full of info. I didn’t find the climb physically hard at all, but it was definitely a mental challenge. I did love the climb, I really felt like I had achieved something special. The whole experience was superbly organised and very slick.
Sat 6th
Our last day!! Went back to the rocks and did the pylon museum which is located in one of the pylons of the bridge, it tells the history of the bridge’s construction and has a lookout on the top, where we got some great views of other climbers doing the bridge climb. We then walked back, pottering through the Rocks market and shops to the hostel to await bus to airport. Weather very squally today with high winds and temps of 32. We’ve had a great holiday!